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Fitting Peak Design Straps on a Fuji Body

Published: 19 July 2017 · Tags: camera, gear

Fitting Peak Design Anchor system straps directly to a Fuji camera body

Update: Since I originally wrote this post Peak Design have addressed the shortcoming over the Anchor links discussed here and released newer models which are much thinner and will fit through the eyelets of Fuji cameras without modification. For more information see First Look: New Peak Design Cuff, Leash and Anchor Links.

Peak Design have been manufactoring a line of quick release straps for a while now. They’ve re-thought the entire concept of how a strap should work and have truly come up with a strap that is, in my option, compromise free.

The straps use anchors which stay attached to your camera body and allow any of the straps in the range to be quickly added or removed, however the anchors can be a bit awkward to mount directly to the eyelets on a Fuji body rather than to the eyelet rings. For many mounting them on the normal rings (where you’d mount any traditional strap) is probably fine, however I find these rattle, particularly when mounted on my Capture Pro clip.

 alt: An Anchor link mounted to the eyelet ring on an X-T1.  alt: An Anchot link mounted directly to the X-T1 eyelet.
Using the eyelet ring on the left, verse the clean setup of a directly mounted anchor on the right.

Mounting the Anchors to the body itself is perfeclty achivable, if a little fiddly. The steps below cover how to fit one on a Fuji X-T1 body, however it should work on any Fujifilm body such as the X-T2, X-Pro series, or the X-T10/20. I performed all the steps here with my Leatherman Wave, however for those that don’t have one you’re going to need:

  • Long-nose pliers
  • Something skinny and pointy, such as a small screwdriver (make sure it’s not sharp)
  • Dental Floss (optional)

1. Remove the eyelet bushings

 alt: Driving the bushing out with the end of my pliers.  alt: Pulling the bushing all the way out with my pliers.
Getting the bushing started with one end of my pliers on the left, and pulling it free on the right.

Inside the eyelets are a tiny bushing used to deflect wear from the strap rings. Remove the strap rings and then use your long-and-pointy-thing to push the bushing out. Placing one end of your pointy-thing in the center and pushing should be enough to get it moving, but a firm tap on the end with your pliers will be plenty. If this doesn’t start it moving, you’ve probably selected something that’s a tad too big.

In my case I found the end of one jaw of my Leatherman pliers to be the perfect size.

2. Squeeze the Anchor in

 alt: Wedging the first small part of the Anchor link into the eyelet.  alt: Working the Anchor link through the eyelet with my Leatherman..
Starting the Anchor link off with my fingers on the left, and then starting to drive the link through with my Leatherman on the right.

This is the hardest part of the process. You’ll need to use your long-and-pointy thing again to drive the end of an Anchor through the eyelet. Keep working it through until a couple of millimeters of enchor shows on the other end. If you can’t get it started like this get a length of dental floss, pass it through the eyelet, and then loop it though the anchor and back through the eyelet. Now tug with your pliers until it peeps though.

In this case I found the well-blunted tin-opener of my leatherman to be the perfect tool for the job. It took about five minutes to work the end through.

3. Give it a tug

 alt: Pulling the Anchor link all the way through the eyelet.  alt: The finished job.
Pulling the Anchor link through with my Leatherman pliers on the left, and finally the mounted link on the right.

Now for the really easy bit: grab the end of the anchor and tug it all the way through. You’ll have to pull fairly hard, but it’ll start sliding freely once you’ve got it going. Now just loop the Anchor link on itself like normal and enjoy ratle-free strap operation.